How to Create a Personal Style Uniform Part 3: Color, Shape, Accessory, and Assembly

Follow the links for Part One and Part Two of this three part series.

Step One: Choose Your Palette 

At most you will be choosing 2 neutrals and 1 color (which can be a third neutral if you prefer). Many people choose black and only black for their uniform. Whatever you choose, prioritize it being easy to find and wear.  

While simplicity wins over being personally flattering in uniforms, there can be some leeway with palette. I recommend trying to keep a flattering color or more likely, a flattering neutral, near your face whether as a dress, a top, or an accessory. If you are using a light and a dark, it's common to keep the light color near your face, unless you are notably top-heavy in shape, then you might consider reversing it. Whatever you decide on, keep it simple, easy to find, and buy multiples.

For warm coloring, I prefer off-white (or cream, ivory, beige) to white. It doesn't have to be your perfect off-white in order for it to be better than true white. You can still do black bottoms, as it's away from your face and will keep shopping simple if you'd rather not hunt for brown, olive, khaki, blush, bordeaux or whatever else you might choose. Be careful not to get hung up on palette selection, as the point of the uniform is to keep it simple. When in doubt, all black or black and white will be easiest to find.

For cool coloring, white and black are the obvious choices. If you are medium or lower contrast, you might choose navy or grey instead of black, and they both go well with white. Blush or light grey or light blue can be a good alternative or addition as well, if it matters enough for you to do the extra shopping. If you do choose neutrals that aren't widely available, you especially need to stock up when you find the right item. 

Step Two: Choose Your Shapes

I generally recommend choosing tops with long sleeves, as it can lessen the need for layering, but I will include short sleeve and sleeveless options. Long sleeves in dresses are harder to find, but might also be worth it for the decreased layering. You want to choose shapes that can be easily found. You might quickly consider which shapes are best for your figure and comfort. Buy them to fit the widest part of you, and if needed, have a tailor take them in where you are smaller.

Uniform Top Possibilities by katilmoore featuring an oversized turtleneck sweater

A few easy to find options for tops include:
turtlenecks
button-ups
pullover blouses
short sleeve cotton tees
striped tops
crew or v-neck sweaters

Common bottoms include:
(specify rise, hem length, and shape in addition to color)
jeans (skinny, straight, flare, wide, crop)
trouser
skirts (pencil, a-line, full, straight)

Common dresses include:
sheath
shift
wrap
shirt dress
A-line

Common shoes include:
pump (round, pointy, or peep)
loafer
oxford
sneaker (low or hi top or pull-on)
ballet (or mary jane or t-strap)
slip on (clog, sandal, or mule)
boots (rain, combat, otk, ankle bootie, shootie)

What you choose will depend on your public life needs, personal comfort, and so on. This is not about A+ perfection- it's about simple and serviceable, so examine quickly, choose one look, and move on (You can be slower and choosier with your shoes, as they tend to be a more expensive purchase, you can wear the same pair every day, and you shouldn't need to replace them very often. Just don't obsess over your choice- they should still be fairly basic and easily replaceable over the years). 

(Optional) Step Three: Choose Your Accessories

This step is optional. If you're pursuing a uniform to be able to better focus on other aspects of life, you may be better served by passing on accessories for now. If you want simplicity, but a touch of style play or visual personality, an accessory is really the way to go. If you choose more than one accessory, you're best off thinking of them as a cohesive set, rather than a sprawling collection. If a sprawling collection brings you joy, that's great, but to me it takes it out of the realm of personal uniform. Your optional uniform accessory isn't the flavor of the day- it's a signature piece, that if you're wearing an accessory (or set of accessories), it's always that piece and will come to be associated with you.

Choosing an accessory in a flattering color and good scale is my favorite option for bringing a color in, because it can be worn with everything without wearing out or needing to be replaced every year. A scarf (neck, shoulder, head, purse handles), a necklace, or earrings are easy options. If you love orange, you can find the most amazing orange pendant or scarf, and it will brighten up what otherwise may be a dull but utile black or white+black combo. If you have autumn coloring, it might just be a luscious camel scarf that brings a bit of harmony and personality into your uniform.  

The 3 personal uniforms above are:
1. grey blazer, grey maxi skirt, (soft) white popover, white sneakers. (optional accessory in the form of a silk scarf)
2. white V tee, navy cardigan, black jeans, black boots. (optional accessory in the form of blue tartan wrap)
3. cream pullover, cream trouser, pointy cream low heel. (optional accessory in the form of flower necklace)

Below is what I might personally choose for a uniform. I based this outfit on what I've gravitated toward in the past in terms of shape, neutrals (and placement of neutrals), comfort, and public life needs. Grey turtleneck (preferably slightly cowled and fuzzy/soft); high-waist, slightly-roomy, black, ankle, trouser; black, low-heeled bootie (with straps if I can be choosy), and optional green print scarf (worn on head or draped over a shoulder and possibly belted or around purse handles). 

My personal uniform by katilmoore featuring black cutout booties

DIY

In coming up with your own uniform, think of what you've happily worn on repeat- not just recently, but what did you wear in high school or college? Become an outside observer to the patterns of your own dressing choices over time, and then add personal observations about how it felt to wear those things. How do you want to feel in your uniform each day? It should be your personal blank canvas and grounded/even-keeled in terms of energy. What are the neutrals or easy colors that are acceptable to you? 

Could you wear a style uniform? What might it be? Let me know in the comments!

Personal Style Uniform Part 2: KLM Uniform Guidelines

Now that we know what is meant by a style uniform, and we know of the great reasons to try it at some point, let's figure out how to do it. I've created a few personal uniform guidelines to make sure that what we come up with for our uniform has what is necessary to keep it both simple and flexible. 

KLM UNIFORM GUIDELINES. Your personal uniform should
1)  works for work, going out, and home life/running errands
2) the pieces must be items you can find in store at any time of the year, regardless of what the trends are
3) uses at most 2 neutrals and 1 color (which could be a 3rd neutral if you prefer)
4) rotate through your closet

It's a lot to ask for women's clothing, as the expectations are higher, and the options are all over the place, but it can be done. (If you need individualized help, see my services and email me if you don't find what you were looking for). It's essential that a personal uniform be appropriate for every common occasion that takes you out of the house.

When you're in-home, you can be in your loungewear, and when you're at the gym you can be in your fitness garb, but to and from, where you're out, about, and seen, you should be in your personal uniform. The president wears a dark suit, Steve Jobs wore blue jeans and a black turtleneck, and you must discover what is right for your public life.

For work there are often hemline and neckline considerations, sometimes sleeve lengths as well. There may also be color restrictions. Make note of all of these. If you have a special uniform for work (e.g. scrubs at a hospital), that will not count in any way toward your personal uniform. If your job has requirements that you don't like, rather than having a black sheath dress for work and a white pant suit for personal, first try to find ways to make the dress a look you like, because it's something you will be seen in a lot. 

For going out, you'll want the feeling to be less stuffy, which may require notes as to fabrics (suiting won't be your best material unless you only go to fancy pants attorney cocktail lounges or something). It may be as simple as swapping jackets (e.g. black crepe blazer instead of black wool blazer).

For wearing at home, you're looking for a certain level of comfort, which is both fabric and silhouette. You can always change into loungewear if you know you're home for the day, but if you'll be intermittently at home and running errands, you'll need your uniform to be both polished and somewhat comfortable.

To ensure you'll always be able to find the pieces of your uniform in-store, make it broad enough. This is part of why most well-known uniforms are some variation on White top + Black bottom. They can be found in almost any store, any season, any year. Know that the more creative you get with your uniform, the more time you'll have to sink into shopping for your uniform. When you find what you're looking for, buy multiples.

If you've chosen more of a signature style than a personal uniform, but still want to keep your mornings simple, rather than taking additional time to choose clothes and shoes each morning, and possibly falling into the trap of wearing only one or two favorites (that you perhaps should have bought 8 of instead of having the small varieties that create a largely unworn wardrobe), rotate through them. Always grab the top on the left, for example, and when you wash your clothes, hang them up on the right side. Do the same with your shoes- wear the first pair on the left, and at the end of the day, put them down on the right end of the row. If there is an item you disliked wearing, and if the reason for dislike can't be fixed, remove it from your wardrobe.

Rotating through your closet is good routine for personal uniform as well, to keep in the practice of wearing fresh clothing, to spread out the daily wear and tear, and to be clear on how many of each item you actually need. If you bought extra for the future, keep these safely in storage with moth balls and out of your visual space.

4 Approaches To solve your style frustrations

I use multiple approaches to style needs when working with clients. Understanding these different approaches is likely to be helpful in your personal style journeys.

The first asks, "Who do I want and need to present to the world? What is required of me? What do I want to invoke in others when they see me?" How you want to be seen is an interconnected and social approach. It may also be beneficial in your professional life to cultivate an image through considering your intended effect. 

The second asks "What do I feel comfortable in? What makes me feel safe? What makes me feel joyous? What makes me feel free?" How you want to feel is a personal approach. It may be how you feel when you see or touch the clothing, or how it feels against your skin, or how it feels to move in it.

The third asks "What colors, shapes/silhouettes, and textures are most flattering on me?" Wanting to know what's most flattering to your form is an analytical approach. This approach is like a puzzle- trying to figure out the different aspects of your form and movement/personality and echo these aspects in your clothing choices.

The fourth asks, "What do I realistically need for my activities in life?" Understanding activity needs is a practical approach. What percent of your time do you spend doing what activity? Do the contents of your closet match up with these percentages?   

Much of the struggle that I see with people trying to sort out their own style comes from trying to wrangle these separate approaches simultaneously. They say things like, "I know I look best in soft fabrics, but I really love sharper looks" (analytical approach conflicting with personal) or "I have to present a serious image, but I just live for cartoon prints and fun, silly things" (social approach conflicting with personal) or "My friend buys me heels and wants to see me wear them, but they don't fit into any aspect of my lifestyle" (practical conflicting with social) and they feel dissatisfied and frustrated when trying to come up with a wardrobe that attempts to value two or more approaches equally and simultaneously.. 

I strongly recommend that you consider these approaches separately.

Step One

Write separate paragraphs and/or lists to focus on

• how you want to be seen
• what makes you feel happy to wear
• what is especially flattering in terms of color/lines/etc
• what your activities currently require of you.

No cross-referencing during this initial phase- just try to answer each of the approaches for themselves without worry of trying to find points of intersection- there might not be any, and that's ok. You may need to break your lists into sublists if you have different answers depending on the arena of your life (e.g. How you want to be seen by your boss, your friends your partner, your baseball team, etc).

Step Two

Order your four lists in order of importance. If your boss requires a specific dress code and it isn't at all what you would personally choose to wear, you might not be able to place what you feel good in above the importance of your life activities or social expectations in that arena, at this time in your life. Don't fret, as there are ways to integrate happy-feel-good items into even the stuffiest uniform. 

It is really important to be clear on what your current style priorities are for the different realms of your life. It is ok to keep them separate, and it is helpful to know in your mind that they are separate, as well as your reasons for keeping them separate, so that you aren't left frustrated in trying to make one cohesive look out of multiple, separate, needs.

For a long time my personal hang-up was in making fitness clothes as stylish and flattering as possible while also staying practical. Realizing that flattering, personally joyous, practical fitness wear couldn't be equally those things has allowed me to stop the endless search and to appreciate what I do have for being practical and at most ticking one other box. 

One of the most common modern style dilemmas is the personal feel-good desire for comfort and a separate desire for the most flattering lines. These are both good desires, and it is infinitely helpful if you know which desire is a bigger priority, if only by a sliver, so that you can make quick calls when shopping or getting dressed each day, and shed the frustrations and confusion that unclear priorities bring.  

Step Three

When you have your separate write-ups, you can begin to ask yourself questions about each- "What is it about these things that makes me feel happy? Is there something I can carry over to bring joy into other arenas of my style? How much wiggle room to I have in my life activity needs? What are the possibilities?" 

It's helpful to remember that while an entirely cohesive wardrobe is satisfying, it's not always possible, and at the root, it's not necessarily what we want when we consider that we have different needs and desires in various realms of our lives. 

Now when you declutter your closet, or when you shop, you can ask what approach or arena of life you're looking for, and how it fits into your current priorities.

If you feel like sharing some of your answers to these questions in the comments, I'd love to hear them! If you think of other approaches, please share those too.

Mix & Match Wardrobes are Overrated

Separates, separates everywhere! Mix-n-match separates! Believe me, I understand why they are everywhere- they are loved because we currently live in a culture of hyper casual dress, and they are lauded as providing more wardrobe options as they are mixed and matched (which adds even more emphasis to casual appearance). I need to tell you, there is a dark side to separates. I'm especially lookin' at you sister capsule bloggers.

Typical Capsule Wardrobe by inaglassforest featuring long sleeve tops

Tell me that the above set I created doesn't look painfully familiar. Why are so many wardrobes so horribly lacking in personality?

Separates are overrated because:

1. Casual is not the epitome of progress. It has a use and a place, but the way we present ourselves is a huge communication tool, and I like to think there is more to be visually communicated than "I'm on break from marathon Netflix in bed". 

2. When your goal is to maximize mix-match-ability, you will be forced to choose fairly plain items and rely almost entirely on accessories for visual personality. This isn't bad, but I think you could do better.

3. It doesn't flatter many people to create the line breaks that this separates approach takes, and it takes more effort to blend the line and complete a cohesive look than if you had chosen a smashing dress or suit. There are casual dresses and suits that would launch you so far from Netflix in bed. 

4. Option overload. Sure, you have a closet full of separates, but do you actually wear and pair them all? Do you enjoy it? Wouldn't it be easier to have a handful of complete looks just ready for you to grab and go, knowing it's already fabulous?

5. While the separates approach doesn't look awful on very many people, it also isn't enhancing anyone, due to the profound lack of flavor. Solids in neutrals (white, grey, navy, brown, cream, blue denim/chambray) are really really great. As filler. They are what you use when the rest of the outfit is loud and has already made the statement of YOU. Or you wear solids in neutrals as a statement themselves- modern/minimal, but in this case, there is a large burden placed on the style of the garment(s) to make a statement. A white button-up and a black skirt aren't going to do it. A white button up with sheer panels and bell sleeves, and a black midi skirt with fabric knots/twists and an asymmetric hem might do it- for a subdued look.

I get wanting wardrobe to be easy and to be comfortable. I even get wanting to blend into the crowd in a way that is aesthetically pleasing without calling attention to yourself. But you're reading my blog, and I want more for you. We can do easy and comfortable (not pajama comfortable, but easy walking comfortable), but we have to do it in a way that really sees you, and then chooses to enhance what it sees. Death to mix and match wardrobes.

Capsule Wardrobe with Personality by inaglassforest featuring ankle strap shoes

This capsule wardrobe was put together quickly, and without anyone in particular in mind, so it isn't as cohesive as it could be, but if you ask me any day of the week which wardrobe I'd want, or which I'd want to see on someone, I will hands down always choose this second capsule.

The first/typical capsule has 240 possible combinations, each as dull as the last. It's an impressive number from 15 pieces. With the personality capsule, 14 pieces makes 80 possible combinations. If you added another pant of some kind, you could have 15 pieces and 128 possible combinations- still only half that of the first, but how many do you need? How many combinations will you wear? What makes you feel expressed and joyful to wear? What's easier to look great in?

Thank-you for indulging my agitation. I truly understand the appeal of neutral-heavy, mix & match, separates, and I will continue to help you wrangle them and make them work as you wish. Just know that there is another way of doing things, and it could be even better.