How to Create a Personal Style Uniform Part 3: Color, Shape, Accessory, and Assembly

Follow the links for Part One and Part Two of this three part series.

Step One: Choose Your Palette 

At most you will be choosing 2 neutrals and 1 color (which can be a third neutral if you prefer). Many people choose black and only black for their uniform. Whatever you choose, prioritize it being easy to find and wear.  

While simplicity wins over being personally flattering in uniforms, there can be some leeway with palette. I recommend trying to keep a flattering color or more likely, a flattering neutral, near your face whether as a dress, a top, or an accessory. If you are using a light and a dark, it's common to keep the light color near your face, unless you are notably top-heavy in shape, then you might consider reversing it. Whatever you decide on, keep it simple, easy to find, and buy multiples.

For warm coloring, I prefer off-white (or cream, ivory, beige) to white. It doesn't have to be your perfect off-white in order for it to be better than true white. You can still do black bottoms, as it's away from your face and will keep shopping simple if you'd rather not hunt for brown, olive, khaki, blush, bordeaux or whatever else you might choose. Be careful not to get hung up on palette selection, as the point of the uniform is to keep it simple. When in doubt, all black or black and white will be easiest to find.

For cool coloring, white and black are the obvious choices. If you are medium or lower contrast, you might choose navy or grey instead of black, and they both go well with white. Blush or light grey or light blue can be a good alternative or addition as well, if it matters enough for you to do the extra shopping. If you do choose neutrals that aren't widely available, you especially need to stock up when you find the right item. 

 

Step Two: Choose Your Shapes

I generally recommend choosing tops with long sleeves, as it can lessen the need for layering, but I will include short sleeve and sleeveless options. Long sleeves in dresses are harder to find, but might also be worth it for the decreased layering. You want to choose shapes that can be easily found. You might quickly consider which shapes are best for your figure and comfort. Buy them to fit the widest part of you, and if needed, have a tailor take them in where you are smaller.

A few easy to find options for tops include:
turtlenecks
button-ups
pullover blouses
short sleeve cotton tees
striped tops
crew or v-neck sweaters

Common bottoms include:
(specify rise, hem length, and shape in addition to color)
jeans (skinny, straight, flare, wide, crop)
trouser
skirts (pencil, a-line, full, straight)

Common dresses include:
sheath
shift
wrap
shirt dress
A-line

Common shoes include:
pump (round, pointy, or peep)
loafer
oxford
sneaker (low or hi top or pull-on)
ballet (or mary jane or t-strap)
slip on (clog, sandal, or mule)
boots (rain, combat, otk, ankle bootie, shootie)

What you choose will depend on your public life needs, personal comfort, and so on. This is not about A+ perfection- it's about simple and serviceable, so examine quickly, choose one look, and move on (You can be slower and choosier with your shoes, as they tend to be a more expensive purchase, you can wear the same pair every day, and you shouldn't need to replace them very often. Just don't obsess over your choice- they should still be fairly basic and easily replaceable over the years). 

 

(Optional) Step Three: Choose Your Accessories

This step is optional. If you're pursuing a uniform to be able to better focus on other aspects of life, you may be better served by passing on accessories for now. If you want simplicity, but a touch of style play or visual personality, an accessory is really the way to go. If you choose more than one accessory, you're best off thinking of them as a cohesive set, rather than a sprawling collection. If a sprawling collection brings you joy, that's great, but to me it takes it out of the realm of personal uniform. Your optional uniform accessory isn't the flavor of the day- it's a signature piece, that if you're wearing an accessory (or set of accessories), it's always that piece and will come to be associated with you.

Choosing an accessory in a flattering color and good scale is my favorite option for bringing a color in, because it can be worn with everything without wearing out or needing to be replaced every year. A scarf (neck, shoulder, head, purse handles), a necklace, or earrings are easy options. If you love orange, you can find the most amazing orange pendant or scarf, and it will brighten up what otherwise may be a dull but utile black or white+black combo. If you have autumn coloring, it might just be a luscious camel scarf that brings a bit of harmony and personality into your uniform.  

The 3 personal uniforms above are:
1. grey blazer, grey maxi skirt, (soft) white popover, white sneakers. (optional accessory in the form of a silk scarf)
2. white V tee, navy cardigan, black jeans, black boots. (optional accessory in the form of blue tartan wrap)
3. cream pullover, cream trouser, pointy cream low heel. (optional accessory in the form of flower necklace)

Below is what I might personally choose for a uniform. I based this outfit on what I've gravitated toward in the past in terms of shape, neutrals (and placement of neutrals), comfort, and public life needs. Grey turtleneck (preferably slightly cowled and fuzzy/soft); high-waist, slightly-roomy, black, ankle, trouser; black, low-heeled bootie (with straps if I can be choosy), and optional green print scarf (worn on head or draped over a shoulder and possibly belted or around purse handles). 

 

DIY

In coming up with your own uniform, think of what you've happily worn on repeat- not just recently, but what did you wear in high school or college? Become an outside observer to the patterns of your own dressing choices over time, and then add personal observations about how it felt to wear those things. How do you want to feel in your uniform each day? It should be your personal blank canvas and grounded/even-keeled in terms of energy. What are the neutrals or easy colors that are acceptable to you? 

Could you wear a style uniform? What might it be? Let me know in the comments!

On the Value of Wardrobe Budgeting

While part of the appeal of learning your best style is self-expression, another largely appealing aspect is the potential of saving money. Let's run through a few questions to see if you could have put your clothing budget to better use.

  • How much money have you spent on clothing you never wear?
  • How much of your wardrobe do you regularly wear?
  • Is it a problem of Fantasy vs Reality and you've bough items too far out of your comfort zone hoping to push yourself into style growth? Did you buy something on a whim because it seemed really fun, but it turns out it would look much better on someone else (maybe you even had someone in mind in the back of your head)?
  • Did you buy something because it was one sale and seemed like a good deal, but isn't actually something you want to wear for any number of reasons?
  • Did you buy something because the cut was amazing on you, but the color wasn't, and so you don't wear it as often as you otherwise would? Or vice versa?
Louboutin altadama140

You get the idea. There are probably a few culprits in your closet. Even knowing my best style, colors, and so on, I make an unwise clothing purchase here and there. It can be really difficult to pass up $5 whimsical pants that don't really go with anything else in your wardrobe (or whatever your version of this is). I find that people tend to commit the same fashion budget crime again and again. You may know that you aren't going to wear those little black dresses more than once a year, but you still collect them anyway.

One of the worst culprits for poor budgeting is shoes. How many pair do you have in your closet? How many do you wear and how often? Do you regularly choose your one or two pair of flats over a dozen heels options? A survey found that women generally only wear 1/4 of the shoes that they own, with 64% saying that a reason was the shoes aren't comfortable enough and 55% saying that the shoes were difficult to match with an outfit. 86% admitted to owning at least one pair of shoes that they've never worn. I'm not entirely opposed to buying a pair of shoes that you never wear, because some of them are more akin to art than footwear, but in that instance, please display them somewhere you can regularly enjoy their beauty.

It's really good to know what you are and aren't wearing and why. One of the ways to evaluate how well a purchase was made, is to calculate the cost per wear of the item. If you spend $600 on a coat, but wear it 200 days a year for 5 years ($600 / 1000 days), you're looking at 60 cents per wear. On the other hand, if you buy a $60 coat and only wear it twice, you're looking at $30 per wear. I had a coat given to me for free that was not particularly flattering, but served a very specific function and was worn many times and very much worth the space it took up.

Cost Per Wear:
Cost of the item divided by the number of times you've worn it

Space in your home is another cost that isn't often considered. There is a square foot value for your dwelling whether you rent a single room in a shared house or own your own mansion. The more stuff you have, the more space you pay for to simply house your stuff. If you have possessions that you aren't using, you're essentially paying a storage fee for them, because you could otherwise live in a small space. There is a limit to this of course, because even if you own nothing, you require more than 25 square feet to live in., but we're talking about space beyond need. What if you already own your dwelling, you ask? Ah, my friend, but you don't own the land. Property tax is rent you pay to the government for the pleasure of living on their land. The more things you have, the more space you need, and the amount of space you own is a factor in the calculation of taxes. Space is also involved in the calculation of the value of your home. If you have few items, but live in a big house, you could rent or sell the big home in favor of one that is a better fit for the amount of stuff that you have, and then you'll have more money for a really high quality pair of practical yet stylish boots (wonderfully low cost per wear).   

Other important consideration of the value of purchasing choices are environmental and labor concerns. There is a cost to the environment (materials grown/harvested to make the garment, dyes/machinery/pollution to create the garment, planes and trucks to transport the garment, etc) and a cost of labor (humans involved in the production and transportation of the garment- Were they treated and compensated well for their labor?) to consider when you aren't buying secondhand. There are many interesting considerations bundled up in this (class, social currency, green capitalism, etc), that deserve their own articles. For the extent of this article, I'll say that it's a good value to maximize savings (cost per wear) in terms of environmental and labor concerns as well. 

The point of this discussion is evaluative. I'm not interested in making rules or encouraging guilt- I'm interested in increasing beauty and making choices feel easy. If we know how much we want to spend (yearly budget, cost per wear, space for items, global considerations, time shopping, time creating outfits, time diggings through closets), then we are in a very good position for evaluating our purchasing tendencies and knowing how to budget. If we can figure out where there is room to improve our wardrobes, we can make our budgets and our lives that much better.

Stay tuned for a post on how best to budget for a wardrobe over a year.

 

Say Yes to your Best

In the KLM approach to style, we focus on what is working, rather than what is not. Rather than coming up with a list of NO, we come up with a list of Yes! Yes! Yes! A small difference at first glance, but with a big mental impact. Framing is everything, and we don’t need to know what is bad in order to work on enhancing the beauty you already have. Learning only what enhances saves mental clutter as well as keeps us focusing on that which is positive.

Rather than "no crewnecks" we ignore crewnecks entirely. Our list says only "yes! scoopnecks!"

I'm not even sure we have time for "maybe"s. When you learn your best, you also learn where you can make concessions if you have to, and which directions to make them in; but what focus we have available ought really be spent on enthusiastically loving our best- the very best versions of ourselves inside and out. 

A pitfall to this is the kind of obsession to detail, the pickiness, that arises from knowing our true best, and not wanting to make concessions. The trick is to remember that we are striving to be our bests with what is available to us right now.  

The future may bring something even better. All we can do is to do our absolute best with what we have at hand (including our budgets as well as style and color availability). If you have a solid basic wardrobe, then you have enough that you can wait through seasonal cycles and the trends of color and cut that come and go to find what really flatters you. You can level up your wardrobe one item at a time- replacing a jersey tee with a linen tee with a silk blouse, or whatever improvement on an item looks like for you.

If you don't have a solid basic wardrobe, then work toward building one while clearing your closet of what isn't working to make room for what works better. Small improvements add up over time, and are often better than sweeping changes; because they give us time to adjust, time to play, and time to really see and feel what is and isn't working. 

What do you feel confident in saying yes to?
 

My Capsule Wardrobe January 1, 2016

It is a living, evolving capsule. You can also see snapshots of how it has been in the past. I'm constantly seeking to play with and improve it. Clothing is a necessity, and style a passion to explore. 

 

Not pictured: exercise clothes, undergarments, jewelry

  1. purple velvet blazer
  2. coral cutout 3/4 sleeve jacket
  3. coral trenchcoat
  4. green wool coat
  5. grey moto jacket
  6. grey drape blazer
  7. green wool cloak
  8. red-orange blazer
  9. rosegold sequin mini dress
  10. cream stretchy sheath dress
  11. navy sparkle neck bodycon mini dress
  12. green double zip sheath dress 
  13. grey sheath dress
  14. grey maxi dress
  15. green halter maxi dress
  16. wine slip dress (got rid of)
  17. navy sparkle maxi dress (favorite thing)
  18. red-orange purse
  19. black purse
  20. gold purse
  21. black hooded dress sleeveless maxi
  22. aqua maxi dress
  23. green halter jumpsuit
  24. coral purse
  25. grey tote
  26. grey silk tie-dye cami
  27. grey split hem tee
  28. purple silk blouse button up
  29. navy ruffle neck sleeveless blouse
  30. navy silk tank
  31. grey midi tube skirt
  32. green maxi straight skirt (diy)
  33. red-orange slim pant
  34. grey wool trouser
  35. black wrap waist pant
  36. coral drape pant
  37. slight bootcut jeans (currently don't fit)
  38. silver clutch
  39. black lace up heels
  40. lime and aqua peeptoe booties
  41. coral wedges
  42. holographic belt
  43. sunglasses
  44. shoulder jewelry
  45. taupe snakeskin sandal heels
  46. gold skyscraper heels
  47. black and navy sandal heels
  48. black bow booties
  49. pewter loafers
  50. black oxfords

There are many items on this list that I know I want to send on their way, and many items I know I want to replace. My current ideal wardrobe is: suits, sleeved maxi dresses, straight midi skirts, blouses, flats/lows in: green, aubergine, royal purple, coral pink, and grey. Not terribly much on my list that aligns, but that's the plan, folks.